Sunday, July 30, 2006

29 July 2006

29 July 2006
Left at 6:30AM on board a turboprop seaplane heading for the Horizontal Falls about 200km away. After flying over the mist covered peninsular we arrived at the falls and circled a few times for photos. As soon as we landed on Talbot Bay a boat was ready to whisk us to the falls. There are two falls with the second one being narrower and much rougher. After circle below the first falls for photos we built up speed and plowed through for an exhilarating ride. The second fall was too rough to navigate so we headed back through the first falls to a catamaran for breakfast and to meet the resident Nurse sharks! After breakfast we headed back through the first falls which was almost calm as the tide was about to turn. The second falls was now navigable so we shot though twice for a couple of magic rides. We spent some time admiring the landscape and coral reef and watch the tide turn before heading back to Talbot Bay for the flight home. The flight home was over the Buccaneer Archipelago at 200m to Cape Levique where we gained height and headed for Broome with sightings of whales, dolphins, turtles and dugongs. Once home we had lunch and relaxed before heading to Cable Beach for our sunset camel ride aboard Elvis the newly caught and trained wild camel - what a beautifully behaved animal!

28 July 2006

28 July 2006
Headed for Willie Creek Oyster Farm in the fog and missed the turnoff so we arrived a few minutes late. We learned all about cultured pearls and also had a boat ride to see some oysters being farmed. The tide was rushing into the estuary so quickly that in the half an hour we were on the boat the jetty was under water and we landed on the beach! The difference between highest and lowest tides can exceed 10 metres.

27 July 2006

27 July 2006
Headed back to the port and jetty to watch the fishermen and take photos. Had a light lunch before taking a hovercraft tour of Roebuck Bay and the 120 million year old dinosaur footprints in the rock on a beach. Broome is home to the largest and best collection of dinosaur footprints in the world as well as being the pearl capital of the world.

26 July 2006

26 July 2006
Developed a problem with our gas and found an ant nest in our toolbox. After moving into a permanent site we went shopping before having the gas regulator replaced.

25 July 2006

25 July 2006
Arrived in Broome and checked into an overflow site at a caravan park. This enabled us to be first on the list for an available site the next day. Broome is an extremely busy holiday destination in the winter because of the warm days and mild nights. Went to look at the port and Cable beach.

24 July 2006

24 July 2006
Headed out on the road again with a stop for lunch at Mary's Pool where there were dozens of other caravans either resting or camped for the night. We spent the night at a free campsite on the road along with about 8 other caravans.

23 July 2006

23 July 2006
Left at 5:20AM on the tour to the Bungle Bungles. It took 3 hours to drive 50km of tarred road and 53km of dirt road but we did stop for morning tea at Calico Springs along the way. After visiting the Visitor Centre we headed for Echidna Chasm which was spectacular for its narrow chasm and 300m vertical rock faces. After having lunch we headed for the Beehive Domes and Cathedral Gorge. The Cathedral Gorge winds through the Beehive Domes and ends in a huge rock chamber with walls up to 300m almost all round. The return home was another 3 hours with a stop for tea and to watch the sunset. We arrived back at Turkey Creek at 7:00PM for a good nights sleep.

22 July 2006

22 July 2006
Visited a Zebra Rock Gallery where you can purchase 500 to 600 million year old Zebra rock which is found nowhere else in the world. We also fed the catfish in the river before making our way to Turkey Creek Roadhouse which is the pickup point for the tour to the Bubgle Bungles. As there was nothing to do we tried to relaxed for the rest of the day.

21 July 2006

21 July 2006
Drove out to El Questro about 20km along the Gibb River Road and had a dip in the Zebedee Hot Springs before walking Emma Gorge to enjoy a peaceful waterfall and pool at the end of the gorge.

20 July 2006

20 July 2006
Updated the web before walking through the Hidden Valley which is described as Kununurra's mini Bungle Bungles. Took a look at Ivanhoe Crossing which is a low level bridge across the river which looked rather dangerous.

19 July 2006

19 July 2006
After a relatively short drive we arrived in Kununurra and booked into a delightful caravan park with beautiful trees, palms and Double-Barred Finches. Did some shopping before relaxing for the rest of the day.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

18 July 2006

18 July 2006
After we treated ourselves to a cooked breakfast we explored the spillway created to allow flood waters to flow into the Ord river below the dam wall. We spotted a Jabiru eating a large 'Long Tom' fish of about 40cm in length. As the dam wall is not a concrete wall the dam cannot be allowed to overflow the wall so the spillway was built to allow flood waters to flow out the dam via this spillway. At full capacity the dam surface area is 1000 square kilometres and should it reach flood capacity it would be 2000 square kilometres. We spent the rest of the day relaxing in camp.

17 July 2006

17 July 2006
After breakfast we visited the Durack Homestead which was relocated stone by stone to a safe location before the dam flooded the area. A Great Bower Bird has built its bower under a bush at the corner of the homestead along with glass, bones and other shiny objects. We then headed down a small track to view the lake. From the hill top we saw a crocodile basking in the sun. Returned to the caravan park for lunch then watched a video on the building of the dam before heading out on a cruise where we saw Black Tailed Rock Wallabies, a Black Headed Python and numerous fresh water crocodiles. There are no salt water crocodiles above the dam at Kunnanara. After watching the sunset while sipping champagne and eating cheese and biscuits we headed home.

16 July 2006

16 July 2006
Left our private campsite and headed for Lake Argyle. After crossing back into Western Australia and having to relinquish our fruit and vegetables we arrived at lake Argyle where we setup, had lunch and visited the dam wall. Lake Argyle dams the Ord River and, when full, holds enough water to fill 54 Sydney Harbours.

15 July 2006

15 July 2006
Left Douglas Daly Tourist Park and travelled through Katherine on the way to Timber Creek. Stopped at Victoria River Roadhouse to photograph the Victoria River then continued to Timber Creek for petrol. We decided to look for a camp site on the road and shortly after reaching the milestone of 10,000 km on the road we found a track leading to a dry pan about 45km west of Timber Creek. We had the place to ourselves and had supper by candle light under the stars. After dinner we built a campfire and lay on our backs on a picnic blanket beside the fire sipping champagne gazing at a pitch black sky with a very bright Milky Way spread from one horizon to the other.

13 July 2006

13 July 2006
Left Darwin and headed for Douglas Daly Tourist Park. Setup camp then headed to the springs for a dip. The water leaves the ground at 60 degrees and then mixes with normal water further down stream. Swimming at this spot give you a mixture of hot and cold water which is very refreshing. Saw an Olive Python curled up in the root of an old tree, it seemed quite relaxed. Later we saw another python slithering across the sand just where we had walked. Had water buffalo roast for supper which was delicious and tender.

14 July 2006

14 July 2006
Walked down the river to look at all the cascades and pools. On the way we came across Boris the Water Buffalo. Returned for lunch and then headed back to the hot springs for another dip.

12 July 2006

12 July 2006
Updated the web log and then had lunch at the Buzz Cafe in Cullen Bay while watching fish swim around the clear water below us.

11 July 2006

11 July 2006
Visited Litchfield National Park where we saw lovely waterfalls, streams, plunge pools and magnetic termite mounds. Had a couple of refreshing swims in a secluded stream which we were told about by some fellow travellers. Weather hot and humid.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

10 July 2006

10 July 2006
Had to replace two tires and then headed to the Crocodylus Park where we saw huge breeding crocodiles and held a cute baby croc.

19 July 2006

9 July 2006
Packed up early and headed for Darwin. On the way we stopped at a river and saw some 'mudhopper' fish and a group of about 200 Little Corellas playing-fighting on the freshly mown lawns. Arrived in Darwin, setup camp and then headed for the wharf where we spent the evening drinking sparkling wine and sampling the local food. After supper we headed to the Sunday evening markets for a couple of hours.

8 July 2006

8 July 2006
Had a relaxing day but did visit the Park Visitor Centre and then also did some shopping and updated the web log.

7 July 2006

7 July 2006
Took a 4WD tour to Arnhemland where we saw aboriginal artists painting using traditional grass paint brushes. We then picked up an aboriginal guide, Thomson, and went to see ancient rock art dating back 30 000 years. We climbed and scrambled over, under and around rocks of the mountain and ended up having tea overlooking the wide plains below. After dropping Thomson back in town and looking at the Art Gallery we headed to a billabong for lunch. After lunch we visited an ancient spear-throwing training ground with spears still sticking out the cracks about 40m high up in a cleft in the rock face. On the way out we visited a male initiation site and a huge secluded billabong for photos. This tour is the ONLY tour allowed to go to these places as this is aboriginal land and the original owner of the tour group was initiated into the aboriginal tribe.

6 July 2006

6 July 2006
Got up early and drove to Cooinda for a ranger talk and walk along the boardwalks over the wetlands. Was introduced to the very sharp taste of the Green Ants. The abdomen of these ants are light green and are extremely rich in Vitamin C. Spent the middle of the day bird watching by the edge of the wetlands and encountered a small Esturine (salt water) crocodile. At 4:30 we took a 2 hour cruise on the Yellow Water river and saw many birds including Sea Eagles, Jabirus, amoung others. Esturine crocodiles were everywhere too. The 'salty' is the largest crocodile in the world and one of two species dangerous to man, the other being the Nile Crocodile.

5 July 2006

5 July 2006
Drove to Kakadu and setup camp in Jabaru after stopping in Cooinda wetlands. The rest of the day was spent relaxing.

4 July 2006

4 July 2006
Spent the day relaxing but also doing some shopping and washing in preparation to moving on to Kakadu.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

3 July 2006

3 July 2006
Spent the day at Edith Falls which is about 45km north of Katherine. Walked to the upper pool and then had a picnic lunch and a refreshing swim. Saw a poisonous black snake which was promptly removed by the ranger. Returned to Katherine to find The Ghan was in town so went to the station to photograph the train.

2 July 2006

2 July 2006
Visited the Springvale Homestead with its huge South American Rain Trees. Took a look at the Katherine Springs and then spent the rest of the day relaxing in camp looking at what to do in Kakadu National Park.

1 July 2006

1 July 2006
Took it easy in the morning and then had a tour of the Cutta Cutta Caves in the early afternoon. These caves are tropical and get hotter and more humid the further in you go. The caves are also subject to flooding which changes the caves every few years. The caves are about 750 metres long and terminate in a hot spring with water 70 degrees hot!

30 June 2006

30 June 2006
Walked to a lookout at the top of the Katherine Gorge and then had a picnic lunch before embarking on a 4 hour boat trip to the first three of the 13 gorges. Had to walk around rapids to each new gorge and get onto different boats. Had tea and cake while some people swam. Returned to camp in the early evening after a most enjoyable boat trip through the magnificent gorges.

29 June 2006

29 June 2006
Visited the Visitor Centre at Katherine Gorge, also known as Mitmiluk National Park. Booked a boat tour then returned to do shopping and washing. Later in the cool of the afternoon we walked around the river near the caravan park. There are many Black Kites flying around and a large variety of birds in camp which make a lot of noise at dawn and dusk. We have seen Blue Winged Kookaburras, Great Bower Birds, Blue Headed Honey Eaters, Rainbow Bee Eaters among others.

28 June 2006

28 June 2006
Visited Bitter Springs on the way out of Mataranka which are a much more natural spring that those we swam in. The whole area is still recovering from the floods in April. Arrived in Katherine early and setup camp.

27 June 2006

27 June 2006
Spent the day traveling to Mataranka where we swam in the local hot springs which streams out the ground at 34 degrees.

26 June 2006

26 June 2006
Packed up and had the camper serviced at 8am while we did some shopping. Left Alice Springs at about 10am and traveled north to Tennant Creek, stopping at the Devils Marbles along the way. The Devils Marbles are a collection of giant granite boulders seemingly balanced on one another. Arrived in Tennant Creek and after supper sat around a camp fire and listened to bush yarns and poetry by Jimmy a well known local aboriginal 'character'. Jimmy also shared some knowledge of bush tucker and remedies and then cooked some witchitty grubs which tasted like peanut butter!

25 June 2006

25 June 2006
Had pancakes provided free by the caravan park and then walked through the awesome Standley Chasm with its very narrow sheer rock face gap opening into a boulder filled valley ascending to the top of the MacDonnell range. Next was Simpsons Gap with its sandy floor and pond blocking the gap to the other side. This was our last day in Alice Springs.

24 June 2006

24 June 2006
Took a 4WD tour to Palm Valley where Red Cabbage Palms are found. These palms are found nowhere else in the world! On the way we visited Hermannsburg which was a missionary town where the famous painter Albert Namatjira lived.

23 June 2006

23 June 2006
Explored the East MacDonnell ranges including an abandoned gold mining town of Arltunga where we walked into a couple of mines which were small and all hand dug. On the way home visited the Ross River Homestead, Trephina Gorge and Jessie Gap.

22 June 2006

22 June 2006
Spent the day doing washing, shopping and other camp chores.